大理崇圣寺三塔游记（四）
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崇圣寺红漆大门上面还挂有一块“佛都”匾额，字迹出自云南历史上的著名高僧圆护禅师之手，圆护禅师擅长书法，与当时的书法家赵孟頫不相上下。圆护的师父为元代到云南传禅的名僧大休。受大休剃度后，圆护“因读《证道歌》契入”，嗣大休法师之法，“著有《磨镜法》，并所书《证道歌》二碑，‘佛都’二大字”。远古时期，崇圣寺有五大宝贝：一是三塔，是大理“妙香佛国”文化的象征和标志。二是鸿钟，敲响时震耳欲聋，声闻八十余里。三是雨铜观音，崇圣寺崇的就是观音菩萨。四是《证道歌》二碑，“佛都”二字，系圆护禅师墨宝。五是三圣金像，世所罕见，珍贵至极。除了崇圣寺三塔外，其余四件宝贝，或毁于地震，或毁于战火，如今已荡然无存。崇圣寺三塔，巍峨壮观，高高的矗立于云天，无论你身在崇圣寺何处，几乎都能看到崇圣寺三塔的美景。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;"> 大理崇圣寺建于唐代824年-829年间，是大理地方政权南诏国第十代劝丰佑时期。当时崇圣寺是南诏大理国的皇家寺院，有着“妙香佛国”的美称。寺院方圆七里，用地三百余亩，寺庙高耸，鳞次栉比，有房屋891间，佛像一万一千四百尊，耗铜40590斤，用工708000余，所用黄金43514斤。寺庙设计精巧，造型精美典雅，庙堂内金碧辉煌，庄严肃穆。开山祖师是唐代高僧义存禅师，义存禅师有门徒1500人，唐僖宗赐号“真觉大师”，并赐紫袈裟。其中有弟子文偃、师备等56人，各创立了禅宗新派别，云门宗和发眼宗，成为了一代禅宗大师。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;"> 崇圣寺初称应天广福禅院，应天雪峰禅院，宋太平兴国（978年），赐名雪峰崇圣禅寺，一直延用至今。后崇圣寺毁于地震与战火。2002年至2005年国家投巨资重建，新崇圣寺用地600亩，直径7.5公里，建筑面积2，1万平方米，总投资1.82亿元，整座寺院焕然一新，美仑美奂，金碧辉煌，大气磅礴。崇圣寺三塔中大塔千寻塔建于唐开元年间，塔高69.13米，塔基面积近200平米，为方形16层密檐式砖塔。南北两小塔，建于五代时期，两塔各与大塔相距70米，均为10层，高42.4米，三塔鼎立，浑然一体，气势宏伟壮观。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;"> 大理崇圣寺大门房屋建筑建在高处，场景辽阔，大气磅礴。门前立有一对强壮的铜狮子，守卫着庙堂。大门两侧道路宽敞，各有六七十级台阶抵达大门口，台阶边缘从下至上都有精美的雕花石栏围着。中间斜卧着三块平石，平石上雕刻有龙飞凤舞浮雕图像等，雕石边点缀有一圈青翠的盆景，既维护石雕又悦目养眼。我俩在气势磅礴的大门前拍照留念，而后沿着楼道走进了“妙香佛都”之门。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;"> 我俩进入崇圣寺已是下午一点多了，这时候我们还没吃午饭，肚子有点饿的慌，就想找块饭店吃点东西，我东张西望没有找到饭店。小蕾眼尖，一眼就看到了进门左手边不远处有一块米线店，我俩走了过去，店里没人，我喊了一声，老板娘走了进来，说是店里只有素米线卖。我俩肚子咕咕叫饿的慌，小蕾说：“不管荤的素的烧两碗来吧。”不一会儿功夫，老板娘就端上来两碗热气腾腾的青菜蘑菇米线，汤里飘浮着几段红辣椒，看着眼馋，饿了什么都好吃。我俩一口气把它吃完，感觉很可口舒适，就像汽车刚灌满了油，又有了动力。吃饱喝足后，我们继续去游玩。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;"> 沿途，我们走过了一口放生池，池水清澈纯净，游鱼欢跳，放生池雕花围栏上挂满了爱情锁。爱情锁景观，在我国的大小景区里都能见到，虽不足为奇，但依然能感受到情侣间的浪漫情怀。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;"> 我与小蕾穿过了山门，走进了山门左侧的财神殿，殿内雕梁画栋，高大空旷，中央供奉有一尊4米多高的坐于虎背上的金甲财神像，</p><p style="font-weight: 400;">金光闪闪，散发着财气。山门右侧是药师殿，殿内装饰豪华，富丽堂皇，坐像佛具等摆放十分讲究，各就各位，纹丝不乱，中间供奉着一尊1.6米高的坐姿药师雕像。从药师殿走不多远，就看到了雕花石墩上立着五件金光灿烂的金刚杵，这金刚杵系三塔出土文物。五件金刚杵大小不一，其中最大的高6米，直径一米，据说这是阿吒力僧诵经时的手持之物。</p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img 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class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics.app.cnyw.net/forum/20240614143733front1_0_1054298_FjX22LjfZk62so_EIgH7nKozVgZL.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MuYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="3024" height="4032" data-qf-origin="forum/20240614143733front1_0_1054298_FjX22LjfZk62so_EIgH7nKozVgZL.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MuYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics.app.cnyw.net/forum/20240614143733front1_0_1054298_FjX22LjfZk62so_EIgH7nKozVgZL.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MuYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20240614143733front1_0_1054298_FjX22LjfZk62so_EIgH7nKozVgZL.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MuYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics.app.cnyw.net/forum/20240614143732front1_0_1054298_FvwKhxkQjtr1MMHEWQKO0tmZvFFQ.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MuYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="3024" height="4032" data-qf-origin="forum/20240614143732front1_0_1054298_FvwKhxkQjtr1MMHEWQKO0tmZvFFQ.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MuYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics.app.cnyw.net/forum/20240614143732front1_0_1054298_FvwKhxkQjtr1MMHEWQKO0tmZvFFQ.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MuYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20240614143732front1_0_1054298_FvwKhxkQjtr1MMHEWQKO0tmZvFFQ.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MuYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p style="font-weight: 400;"> 我与小蕾不知不觉间走进了天王殿，天王殿内金碧辉煌，高大空旷，雕梁画栋。殿内大小龙飞凤舞精美图案，环绕在穹顶四周。5.7米高的大黑天神佛像屹立于庙堂中间，庄严肃穆，威风凛凛。两侧供奉有5米高的四大护法天王佛像，手持法器，威武壮观。出了天王殿，往里走不多远，我们就看见了一座七开间的弥勒佛大殿。大殿中间供奉着金光闪闪的大肚弥勒大佛，后供奉着韦驮佛像，大殿两侧列有天龙八部佛像。崇圣寺跟全国其它地方的寺庙有点不一样，这里原来叫天龙寺，所以有天龙八部佛像，这是其它地方所没有的。弥勒殿左右两侧是罗汉堂，罗汉堂内金碧辉煌，金光闪闪。供奉着五百罗汉和两个明王，罗汉佛像平均高1.8米。五百罗汉，形态各异，活灵活现，场景宏大，气势磅礴。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;"> 我俩朝着景区大道往前走，来到了宏伟壮观的七开间观音殿，殿内供奉着一尊9米高的十一面观音佛像。十一面观音佛像坐落在巨大的莲花座上，造型精美，金光闪耀，千姿百态，靓丽无比。两侧排列有高大的观音八化身佛像。崇圣寺大雄宝殿也是七开间而立，门面装饰华丽壮观。大殿宽51.7米，高26米，殿内雕梁画栋，富丽堂皇，精雕细琢，龙凤呈祥。大殿中间是主佛释迦牟尼、阿南尊者与迦叶尊者，两侧有十八罗汉护法。殿内18扇格子门上，雕刻着如来佛祖从诞生到圆寂的精彩故事。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;"> 大雄宝殿内墙上，还有一幅高1.8米，长117米的《张胜温画卷》。张胜温是宋代大理国著名画家，画卷中描绘了628个佛像和世俗人物，其中有“利贞皇帝礼佛图”，此图描绘了大理国国王段智兴率领皇后、太子及文武百官，在苍山十九峰下，烧香拜佛的隆重场景。画卷中有“天龙八部护法菩萨尊者等”，有124位佛陀、菩萨、观音、罗汉像等。此画卷还描绘了南亚、东南亚、宋朝和云南各少数民族地区的国王、官员、部落首领共16人，其中还有四位小王子和公主。图中生动体现了南诏大理国，与宋朝及东南亚各国各民族之间的密切交往关系。画卷中的山水画是古代山水画中的杰作，画卷中的动物画，是古代一流水平的动物画。画卷原作现藏于台湾故宫博物院。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;"> 大雄宝殿旁边有一座高僧殿，殿内有九尊尊贵至极的高僧雕像，这些高僧，都曾经是大理国的国王。殿内高僧雕像，就是根据他们的形象，精雕细琢而成。大理国二十二代国王中，有九位国王在皇家寺院崇圣寺出家为僧。他们为何放着好好的国王不当，要出家为僧？！究其原因有以下四个方面可以说清楚：一是在争权中失败，被废为僧，如段思良，大理第二世国王。二是政权不稳而为之，如段正严，《天龙八部》中段誉之父，大理第十六世国王。三是高氏专权人人向背，如段寿辉，大理第十三世国王，段正明，大理第十四世国王。四是惯例所致，新国王即位后，原国王退位让贤，出家为僧，以安定人心。如第二世国王段思英，第八世国王段寿隆，第五世国王段素贞，第十五世国王段正淳，第十七世国王段正兴。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;"> 我与小蕾走出了高僧殿，来到了慈航普度观音阁，观音阁左右各建有一座精美的亭台楼阁，门前有一口池塘，池塘中间站立着如来佛祖，如来佛祖两侧各有四条巨龙雕像，围绕在如来佛祖身旁。池中游鱼欢畅，水波荡漾。走进观音阁，我们看到了高12米的阿嵯耶观音佛像，典雅柔美，庄严肃穆。崇圣寺跟其它地方的寺庙不一样，这里光观音殿就有三个，崇圣寺崇的就是观音菩萨。崇圣寺三塔到此游览完毕，匆匆忙忙，走马观花，可也花去了五个多小时。（完）</p><p style="font-weight: 400;">写于2024年6月13日</p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics.app.cnyw.net/forum/20240614143951front1_0_1054298_FkOkYwmETM5wYhYy720S1nTW3lgt.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MuYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="3024" height="4032" data-qf-origin="forum/20240614143951front1_0_1054298_FkOkYwmETM5wYhYy720S1nTW3lgt.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MuYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" 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