洪其璜
发表于 2025-9-29 16:35:23
德瑞夏日纪行（一）
<!----><style type="text/css">html{font-size:375%}</style><link href="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/static/publish/css/style.css?v=20240712" rel="stylesheet" position="1" data-qf-origin="/static/publish/css/style.css?v=20240712"><!-- 付费贴--> <div class="preview_article "> <!----> <p>文/洪其璜</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250929161523front2_0_903999_FnlOAqZPBB1m5T68bpHQduV2SvXN.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="2000" height="2572" data-qf-origin="forum/20250929161523front2_0_903999_FnlOAqZPBB1m5T68bpHQduV2SvXN.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250929161523front2_0_903999_FnlOAqZPBB1m5T68bpHQduV2SvXN.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20250929161523front2_0_903999_FnlOAqZPBB1m5T68bpHQduV2SvXN.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p> 2025年7月17日23:35，一家五口——儿子、儿媳、孙女，以及我与老伴——登上LH727航班，从上海浦东机场腾空，十三小时的跨洲飞行，于18日清晨降落在慕尼黑。再转机北飞，一小时后飞机平稳地触地于汉堡机场。</p><p> 儿媳闺蜜丁丁的先生（Stephen）——一个身材高大、举止儒雅、金发碧眼的德国帅哥，早已在出口迎候，他轻声问候，顺手接过行李，我们的倦意瞬间消散，连时间差也一并抹平。 </p><p> 我与老伴安顿在阿尔斯特河畔的一家酒店，随后一起前往丁丁家，儿子一家便留宿此处。</p><p> 女主人身材修长、知性娴雅。午餐已摆好——长桌上中西杂陈，香气四溢。孩子们久别重逢，边吃边聊，笑声此起彼伏，俨然一个“国际家庭”。 </p><p> 饭后。老伴、儿媳随丁听去她儿子的幼儿园，我与儿子便与Stephen一起漫步于阿尔斯特河岸。一小时后我们回来，孙女已经牵着一个睫毛卷翘、像瓷娃娃般的中欧混血小男童，在别墅门前的花园里嬉戏，那正是丁听的儿子。</p><p> 稍事休整，我们一家五口就直奔“微缩世界”（Miniatur Wunderland）。该处是德国汉堡标志性的旅游景点，入门先穿过一条幽暗甬道，再抬眼，仿佛整颗地球被悄悄缩成一幅立体地图，那些遥不可及的地标，此刻全在视线里：阿尔卑斯山积雪；威尼斯在泛波；汉堡港的吊机正把集装箱码上船。列车车窗透出点点灯光，轰鸣着穿隧道、过桥梁；机场跑道上飞机依次起降，起落架收放自如……</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250929161602front2_0_903999_FlBfa-rVSbhTAxlXyw3WAzIrtmJY.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="5184" height="3232" data-qf-origin="forum/20250929161602front2_0_903999_FlBfa-rVSbhTAxlXyw3WAzIrtmJY.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250929161602front2_0_903999_FlBfa-rVSbhTAxlXyw3WAzIrtmJY.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20250929161602front2_0_903999_FlBfa-rVSbhTAxlXyw3WAzIrtmJY.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p> 儿子、儿媳边拍照边介绍着各个主题区域的地理风貌、人文景观。我遍寻四大展区，终于在东南角看到尚未完工用中国版图——脚手架里只立着china2026的蓝色预告牌，像一张提前递到的请柬，却尚无人拆封。 </p><p> 出馆时，夕阳把易北河镀成一条暗闪的金线，我们像被从缩小的梦境里轻轻放归，回到辽阔人间，耳边仍回荡着仿真火车穿越阿尔卑斯隧道的哒哒声。 </p><p> </p><p>19日 汉堡：石与水的记忆</p><p> </p><p>阳光灿烂，气候宜人，漫步在汉堡城区，整座城市一尘不染。随处可见红砖哥特尖顶与欧式楼房错落相邻；街角咖啡馆把座椅铺到人行道边，街巷不见摩托，也不见电动自行车，红白对半涂装的奔驰Citaro巴士往来穿梭，在街景里划出一条条弧线。 </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250929161705front2_0_903999_FjGnMcjbaZSVG57FBxa7wnLENp5a.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="2428" height="3060" data-qf-origin="forum/20250929161705front2_0_903999_FjGnMcjbaZSVG57FBxa7wnLENp5a.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250929161705front2_0_903999_FjGnMcjbaZSVG57FBxa7wnLENp5a.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20250929161705front2_0_903999_FjGnMcjbaZSVG57FBxa7wnLENp5a.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p> 我们沿易北河向老城走去。先抵市政厅（Rathaus）。这座砂岩新哥特巨厦落成于1897年，二战的烈焰曾把汉堡烧成废墟，它却奇迹般幸存。 </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250929161932front2_0_903999_FjQ11pNtXrCsB7QnBJRgYpSFYF2k.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="1040" height="780" data-qf-origin="forum/20250929161932front2_0_903999_FjQ11pNtXrCsB7QnBJRgYpSFYF2k.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p> 在市政厅门口，宽阔的广场上，十几个人把旧衣鞋帽铺在石地板上，没有摊位、没有叫卖，只有纸牌上简单的黑字：Peace, Not War。儿媳低声解释，那些衣物来自中东战地，和平组织把它们带到汉堡，让欧洲也嗅到一丝硝烟。人群围成松散的弧，像围观无声的展览。</p><p> 我们放轻脚步，绕过“人形地毯”，踏进市政厅门廊。门内是另一种声场——穹顶挑高二十米，像倒扣的哥特木舟；橡木地板将脚步回声收束成鼓点；镀金吊灯垂下，把幽暗的穹顶点亮成一颗悬浮的金色星球。儿子把镜头对准中央楼梯的，我对着他取景的方向望去：螺旋台阶铺展如折扇，把视线引向高处暗红的门厅。</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250929162031front2_0_903999_FkS4pIo0c8FooUXThEhV9jVdwK_8.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="2000" height="2668" data-qf-origin="forum/20250929162031front2_0_903999_FkS4pIo0c8FooUXThEhV9jVdwK_8.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250929162031front2_0_903999_FkS4pIo0c8FooUXThEhV9jVdwK_8.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20250929162031front2_0_903999_FkS4pIo0c8FooUXThEhV9jVdwK_8.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p> 穿过市政厅北门，仅五分钟，便到圣尼古拉教堂（St. Nikolai）。1943年，一场代号为“蛾摩拉行动”的空袭，盟军轰炸机将老城夷为焦土，战争之火不分士兵与平民，持续三昼夜的轰炸，夺取了3.7条生命（汉堡市档案局，1953），教堂被烈焰焚毁，唯存一座焦黑的塔身，塔尖指向苍穹，如一枚锈色沉沉的惊叹号，钉在城市的记忆深处。</p><p> 周边的几处断墙孤峙，隐约可见其曾经有过的宏伟与辉煌。一家人立于废墟前，沉默良久。孙女仰头问：“爷爷，为什么不把它修回去？”我伸手摸了摸焦黑的墙砖，说：“留着，才记得。” </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250929162106front2_0_903999_Fjt83XlAlk_gSWDiNuCykV94aJsb.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="4416" height="5792" data-qf-origin="forum/20250929162106front2_0_903999_Fjt83XlAlk_gSWDiNuCykV94aJsb.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250929162106front2_0_903999_Fjt83XlAlk_gSWDiNuCykV94aJsb.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20250929162106front2_0_903999_Fjt83XlAlk_gSWDiNuCykV94aJsb.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p class=""> 中午，一顿延迟的午餐，品尝了正宗的汉堡。餐后，我们登上双体游轮，河面宽如湖泊，"哗——哗——"河水轻拍船舷，沿岸红砖仓库、教堂尖顶的光影被水纹揉碎，随即拼合。涌起的水声，与游客的欢笑声融成一体，又一层层漾开，然后被风卷向易北河上空，悠悠打转。</p><p class=""> 画画柔软，心也松弛。我斜倚椅背，老伴牵着孙女凭栏眺望，儿子儿媳在旁低声说笑；北海的风把满船形色与一家五口的笑纹吹进暮色。</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img 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</p><p> 汉堡的高纬度让黄昏拉得很长，太阳落山已近晚十点。归途上，车窗里并排五张侧影，被余晖叠进北迟迟不沉北德夏日。</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250929163242front2_0_903999_Fnk9Hb0Z0djcZvLoqbrOcDv8JytD.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="4000" height="3000" data-qf-origin="forum/20250929163242front2_0_903999_Fnk9Hb0Z0djcZvLoqbrOcDv8JytD.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250929163242front2_0_903999_Fnk9Hb0Z0djcZvLoqbrOcDv8JytD.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" 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class=""> </p><p class=""> （待续）</p> <!----></div>
巴山夜雨201
发表于 2025-9-29 18:27:05
从文字中、图片上，可以体会到那是一个很适合居住、生活的地方，谢谢作者用心分享。
成老师
发表于 2025-9-29 19:06:38
欣赏洪老师佳作超赞:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory:
成老师
发表于 2025-9-29 19:07:27
一家人周游世界，是多么开心啊！:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory:
成老师
发表于 2025-9-29 19:07:38
https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1
成老师
发表于 2025-9-29 19:07:59
https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1
成老师
发表于 2025-9-29 19:08:14
https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1
文明义鸟
发表于 2025-9-29 19:57:33
欣赏学习老师佳作，点赞！
文明义鸟
发表于 2025-9-29 19:58:19
谢谢老师分享德国风光无限美好！点赞！
安平|与幸福同行
发表于 2025-9-29 20:12:38
点赞洪老师佳作