“小红杯”倍磊访古记（一）
<!----><style type="text/css">html{font-size:375%}</style><link href="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/static/publish/css/style.css?v=20240712" rel="stylesheet" position="1" data-qf-origin="/static/publish/css/style.css?v=20240712"><!-- 付费贴--> <div class="preview_article "> <!----> <p>“小红杯”倍磊访古记（一）</p><p> </p><p>文/陈黎明</p><p> </p><p>古邑千秋，倍磊风华，美誉远扬。观双溪六石，灵辉璀璨，老街店铺，商贾繁忙。陈氏开基，埠商兴盛，族落传承敬胜堂。思畴昔，育两溪才俊，文武贤良。</p><p> 宗祠铭刻荣光，引无数、游人思绪翔。忆村民德范，百工好学，温良俭让，忠勇尚义。戚旅扬威，大成佳话，狼筅驱倭震八荒。看今日，喜乡村蝶变，再谱华章。</p><p>——方向明 沁园春•倍磊古村</p><p> </p><p>早闻倍磊“烟灶过千”（民国），莫大惊讶！前二天因故不能随团一往，颇多遗憾！今读作家方向明老师词作，不免心旌神弛。看天晴秋爽，难得一空，遂约小贾老师一同前往，以飨好奇之心。</p><p>我们直接导航到倍磊四村。从村口向里望去，人来车往，熙熙攘攘，人声马达声，响彻闹街；犬奔鸡鸣，充塞耳鼓，真烟火人间地！</p><p>我们以为这里就是老街了吧，各种店铺林立，设施齐全，应有尽有，几百米的间距竟然塞进来三家银行！早已消失不见的手工服装店，竟然顾客盈门。主迎客欢的，好像繁华市镇开交流会哪！心里想，这里哪里哎？村庄里怎么可能如此？如今白天，有几个村庄有人呢？闻名遐迩的佛堂老街也不过如此景象吧？</p><p>小贾老师好像小孩子似的，兴奋莫名，摸摸这里，拍拍那儿，好像发现了新大陆的哥伦布，不断发出“啧啧”惊喜声来！</p><p>“看这里！”</p><p>“快看那里！”</p><p>我也拿出手机不断拍照。心里感觉小时候赶集似的，奇珍异宝太多了吧！</p><p>你看看，村口那池塘边沿，颇有艺术性地种植了各种景观植物。在阳光下，江南的温暖秋天里，芦苇依然青翠，美人蕉依然姹紫嫣红。伸进池塘的长石板上，捶衣洗涤的村姑倒映在水中，白云衬着一抹红衫的倒影，显得格外精神美丽。有几只鸭鹅飘过去又浮过来，“嘎嘎嘎”叫着，呼亲唤友，又好像欢迎远道而来的客人呢！</p><p>因为一时找不到目的地，也不知道有哪些景观可看，时间也宽裕，我们就在村市上街巷弄道里四处闯荡，企图拣些新鲜的东西还有没有，探宝一样，走到哪算到哪吧。</p><p>看！那边有口大池塘，上面有牌坊有曲廊有房子呢。走近了一瞧，气度不凡的倍磊文化礼堂座落在池中央，有石铺就的曲廊直通大堂。</p><p>低头一看，曲廊中间有个图案好有设计感，把江南的元素、古建的元素，融合在村名“倍磊”上，真的妙趣横生！</p><p>四周望去，颇有江南水乡的风味，池水映着民房牌楼，民房牌楼牵着蓝天白云，估计晚上红灯笼打开，更是一种画里醉梦的天庭景象吧？</p><p>我们围着文化礼堂走了一圈，嗨！看到了下一个目标了一一不远处有个庙宇在田野间呢。听说这庙宇前曾经是粮米交易广场，热闹得很！也是离倍磊街埠头最近的地方。</p><p>曲廊只在文化礼堂这边，隔壁并不相通，只能走回头路。去村庙的路，其实一半是沿池边走，都是整齐的楼台厂房，机器因为关着门，听去有点沉闷的声音，嘎吱嘎吱响。楼房边上，有城里人羡慕的小庭院，围着一人高的墙，种着各种蔬果。</p><p>嗨！不是说“烟灶过千”吗？怎么却是现代楼房呢？不会骗人吧？先不管它。</p><p>走到楼房尽头，一条公路现在眼前，路边有公交车站牌，交通应该很便利的啦！我特意指向田里绿油油的开着小白花，如同云块浮在绿草地上的荞麦让小贾老师猜。她说很熟哎，小时候很多的，就是想不起来是什么粮食。我提示了她最喜欢吃的一种特色面，义乌土话叫，“荞麦老鼠”，摘个小荞麦面团，在米糠筛子上一搓就好。她边说好漂亮啊边拿出手机横竖扫了一番。</p><p>边说边走，不一会儿就到了庙宇，名为永镇古寺。好像三四开进，前面天王殿，四大天王各拿着各自的法器，气宇轩昂站着。后面千手观音阁，旁大雄宝殿。佛像都蒙着红绸布，崭新的，应该刚修茸一新，还没开光呢。</p><p>往回走时，穿插进别的弄，望见了倍磊小学，规模宏大，楼房挺新，旁边有幼儿园。沿着溪水上溯，回到了市街，又是一个池，“倍磊古村老街”的牌子赫然立在池角左边。池中央有仿一渔夫静坐舟上塑像，好像在说，老街在这里呢，你们还没进去哪！倍磊老街曾经是官道，也是非常热闹的商业繁华之道，尤其是在明嘉庆时期，义乌最为热闹的16个商业街之一呢！</p><p>看看时辰，也差不多午饭了，我们选了一家面馆，出来不想吃米饭，就要刨点新鲜的，先把肚子喂饱了再说吧。点了面，麦角，豆腐猪油渣馄饨好久没尝过了，上次好像去浦江时，一般地方不熟悉的话不容易撞见，未尝先暗自咽了几口口水！</p><p>吃完，百度一下，除了老街，还有啥好玩的地方，来则安之。看朋友圈微信群里晒出来的图片，应该重点陈大宗祠、九思堂、龙皇殿、街心亭吧？因为人生地不熟的，第一次来倍磊，边走边看吧！</p><p>走进老街没多少路，小贾老师眼尖耳灵，“啊呀”！我跟着她的方向，一家荞麦馆人声鼎沸，热闹得很！“知道这里有荞麦，应该上这吃饭啊！”听听，颇有后悔之意。是的，“荞麦老鼠”面是义乌人的最爱吧！其实我小时候对它并不喜欢，哪像现在佐料都是真家伙，牛肉，各种汤料。那时候没有什么米饭，荞麦易种时间短，哪怕立秋后种，到霜降也可以收割一次。那时候的荞麦面也没什么油星子，肯定不会好吃啊！</p><p>街两边几乎都是一色的明清建筑，或者民国风，古色古香，不愧为踏着青石铺就的老街，中华古村落名村典范。靠着外面的基本都是青砖黛瓦的普通民房。中间时有气质高雅的大家闺秀般的大宅院，可谓十步一祠堂，雕花木砖，粗柱大梁，吨重的条石铺就的天井，星落棋布，随处可见。仿佛静静述说着曾经的殷实大族的辉煌、功臣宿将的恢宏史迹。</p><p>据介绍和考证，倍磊又叫倍磊街，村落面积近41公顷，核心保护区占12公顷余。这个义乌市西南角的村子有四个自然村组成，东西长南北窄的“棋盘”布局，风水地理得天独厚；各村都有卫生服务站开着。大部分为金陈王姓，陈姓最为昌盛，人口4300余。陈祖从东阳安文镇迁入繁衍，至今有980年的历史，古建遍布。当初倍磊有六块巨莹石，分叠二堆，陈祖取名为倍磊。</p><p>明嘉庆清乾隆时期，倍磊人广置田庄，辛勤耕作，同时凭借八宝山下来的南溪北溪，通称小六石双溪，形成倍磊埠头，汇入义乌江，水上运输的便捷，经营百工，尤其是火腿、红糖、黄酒生意，积累了大量的财富。这些殷实大户，遵祖训，不惜工本，建祠堂，树牌坊，造花厅，为子孙后代留下了一笔宝贵的历史文化遗产。</p><p>倍磊现有省、市文保单位16处，历史建筑26处，古刹建筑群2处，2019年春被列入中国历史文化名村，义乌第一家！</p><p>走在老街，如入时光隧道。村民朴实的日常一一呈现，电瓶车三轮车随时身边遛过；狗儿猫儿懒洋洋或倚或躺在门口，大概见惯了生人，无视人来人去地自在玩耍；村民推过的三轮车上，总有当季的大豆粟米和蔬菜，生活气息如此浓郁！还别说几个人当街搬一张桌子，划拳饮酒、喝茶吃饭的，边吃边聊的；还有一些人，挤坐在有点昏暗的老房理发室里，等候师傅一展春风回笼面的。哪像常见的老街一经开发，了不得了，必须要所谓高大上伟岸的样子，都会赶走市井百姓，只剩叫卖生意儿，好生地无趣！</p><p>不多一会，就来到了龙皇亭，分三层，跨街而造，雕工精湛，浮像如生，气派别致，好像是个特别的打卡点吧！</p><p>边上还有石栏，较宽，可以如早年坐在上面歇息、乘凉、听书。下面石板有些陈旧的破了，边凌都磨得好光滑，一如以前的忠实呈现，留存着岁月的沧桑痕迹。上面临街的木板上隐约可见“毛…思想”几个字，令人如温那段历史。</p><p>我们不知道，一直往前走，走到街心亭时，偶遇了对面走来的老王老师，真的千古一遇。聊了几句，他还没吃饭，就匆匆道他吃完饭再会。我们有点傻劲儿似的一直走到了另一个村子，才发现走错了。九思堂在哪里呢？咋不见标记呢？于是边走边问边看。路过陈大宗祠和陈列馆，详详细细看了一遍坐了一会就想直奔九思堂去，正出门时又碰见了老王老师吃了饭来，他还没好好看过，那就一会再会吧。</p><p>拐过一弄堂，村居中间有一条溪，时见村民洗菜洗衣的，溪水清澈可底。不时有大房子默默展现，正是“欲抱琵琶半遮面”！大房厅“蕴玉怀珠”说的还真在理。这些大房子好像群星散落人间，不张扬高声“我在这呢！”也不卑微，要你走到面前才能看到，轻易不会跟生人来打招呼的。刻着“旌烈”的节孝石牌坊就默默靠在街边，注视着行人，一不注意就会错过了尘世缘分。“金石盟心”照着蔚蓝的云天，不知道有什么故事？也许当地的村民也不一定知道其中的含义。我想可能是“同仇敌忾团结齐心”抑或夫妻同心的意思吧，姑且妄作猜测先贤了。</p><p>走着走着，一堵残墙挂着南瓜藤，吸引了我的目光，我是搞书画和探险的，不妨蜇进去看看。原来是倒塌废弃了的老房基，被村民开发利用起来了，外墙权当围墙，里面的瓜果蔬菜玉米大豆向日葵，倒也一派生机昂扬。</p><p>于是走着走着又迷路了，反正闲逛吧，我们也不太愿意走回头路，说不定有更多的收获呢。沿途倍磊水库，敬仁堂，致仁堂，敬修堂的堂号真多，估计这些堂主当年都是了不得的人物呢。</p><p>来到倍磊就听说九思堂仪性堂，特别令村民引以为傲。仪性堂还是浙江省级文物保护单位哪。仪性堂又名后仓堂，由陈德懋建于清朝乾隆五十一年(公元1786年)，位于倍磊四村。仪性堂咋一看如黄山八面厅，因为同一帮工匠制作，细细察之，又大出意外，足见匠心巧妙和智慧。听倍磊人陈焕说里面有49间房，阁楼都有独立楼梯供上下，听说曾经住过二个生产队的人，足见200多人吧！其正门和左右龙虎门是以“商”字为形建造的，体现了义乌人重商的传统理念，为五间式砖雕牌坊门楼。门面上的雕刻十分精美，内容以民间传统的福、禄、寿、喜为题材，雕以龙凤、仙鹤、鹅、牡丹等图案，寓意鸿运通达。</p><p>该建筑坐北朝南，前后三进三开间两天井，中轴线上依次为门厅、大厅、堂楼，左右两厢两弄堂，通面阔27.1米，通进深38.65米，占地面积为1047平方米。</p><p>2017年1月13日，浙江省人民政府公布为第七批浙江省文物保护单位。保护范围包括仪性堂建筑本体，自墙体向外延，南面延伸7米，东面和西面各延伸9米至重厢后檐墙，北面延伸12米至水塘外沿，占地面积2712.9平方米。</p><p>建设控制地带东面、南面和西面自保护范围向外各延伸30米，北面自仪性堂后檐墙向外延伸40米，所构成的封闭区域，占地面积9701.7平方米。据介绍，仪性堂的楼门是义乌目前保存最完整、雕刻最精美的清代牌楼门。</p><p> </p><p>倍磊素有“南有仪性堂，北有九思堂”之说，可见九思堂在倍磊村里的影响。九思堂在倍磊二村，据《走进倍磊》一书介绍，九思堂建于清嘉庆三年(1798)，由倍磊陈氏五房陈永祝的儿子陈舜寿建造。堂名出典自《论语》中的“君子有九思”即视思明、听思聪、色思温、貌思恭、言思忠、事思敬、疑思问、忿思难、得思必。</p><p>相传九思堂太公陈舜寿，置有良田六百余亩，家财万贯。陈太公虽然每天金进银出，家规却很严，绝不允许子孙随便拿钱用钱，一经发现，家规伺候。但陈太公对困难外人却极其大方！</p><p>据相关资料记载，九思堂坐北朝南，占地面积1126平方米，建筑面积约2000平方米，前后依次排列着前堂、正厅、后堂三进主屋，左右是龙虎弄堂和重厢房，共有39间，前堂居中开大门，龙虎弄堂开侧门，三进主屋和两边厢房之间有两个大天井。</p><p>当我们环顾四周，顿时为那精湛的设计和雕刻工艺所吸引，冬瓜梁两端、中间刻有浅浮雕仙鹤、仙鹿，以体现福禄延年；梁、檩、枋、牛腿、雀替、斗拱、窗棂等处，吉花丰腴，瑞兽生动，人物飘逸，情致盎然。雕刻艺术之精湛，堪为瑰宝，令人叹为观止。</p><p>佛堂镇志办的陈江彬是倍磊村人，对倍磊村的历史沿革、民风民俗及古宅民居等颇有研究。据他介绍，九思堂建筑还有一个特点，即为了防盗，四周墙壁都用木板双重建构，叫做“重壁”。一旦盗贼深夜掘墙打洞，触及木重壁，便会发出声音，保镖、男仆就能应声而起，做好防范工作。还有靠天井的隔墙板下面全是青石板砌之，这也是其他的地方所没有的，当然防潮功能相当给力啦！（未完待续）</p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20241022040308front2_0_1011626_Fj69XKKFAcBvFaXUZbDX_ovp3Ukb.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MuYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" 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